Frequently asked questions

At Mito & Son P/L, we pride ourselves on only using the best products available as well as best practices when it comes to servicing the specific needs of our valued clients in Geelong. We offer unbiased technical support and advice in pre-preparation and installation as well as an appropriate design for the project in mind.

All our external products are manufactured using seasoned kiln-dried NZ  FJ Laminated Clear Grade Pine. There are many advantages to using this product over other alternatives.

1. A sustainable resource from plantation timber enables us to protect old-growth forests and the habitats of wildlife for future generations.
2. A structurally engineered product that was developed to meet the growing needs of the Building Industry nationally and internationally. Compliant with Australian Standards AS1604 this particular product is kiln-dried and very stable. There is none of the following side effects that are common practice with other types of timbers used for the same applications as this product:

Shrinkage – This product is very stable and doesn’t need to be wrapped in a protective plastic seal to prevent the timber from shrinking. Other timber types still need to be wrapped even after the product has been installed.

Twisting – As an engineered product, the series of laminations as well as finger joins staggered along the product help maintain the straightness of the product as well as structural benefits. Compliance with Australian Standards AS1720 regular and stringent tests are performed including delamination testing as well as stiffness to maintain a constant quality in producing this premium product.

Cracking – Almost non-existent.

Sap-free – This particular timber type is sap free and doesn’t portray the ongoing problems sap causes even when other types of timber are painted. It is a well-known fact that the sap manages to still work its way to the surface of certain timbers even when it is painted.

All of our quality heritage-style timber products that are for external applications are manufactured using only the highest grade of New Zealand Pine available.

We pride ourselves on best practice procedures ensuring our valued client only gets the best available product. Our policy is simple – if our product is not of a standard that we would happily accept for ourselves then why should our valued client be any different?

Always request Australian Standards Compliant Products and protect yourself against inferior alternatives.

To paint untreated pine, follow the following steps:

1. Fill nail holes with an exterior grade wood filler.
2. Sand back until surface is completely free from all dirt and degraded material and dust off. We recommend everything is clean and thoroughly dry.
3. Prime all surfaces, including cut ends and joints, with a good quality aluminium wood primer preferably 2 thin coats. Water based primers are less effective in this application.
4. Allow to dry as per manufacturers recommendations then sand to an even finish.
5. Apply two full coats of topcoat as per manufacturers recommendations. For best results refer to manufacturer’s data sheets when using their aluminium wood primer product and which topcoat they recommend depending on whether you want a low sheen or semi-gloss finish. For best results, always use the same brand paints from primers to finish topcoats. The reason being that these paints  complement one another regards to bonding and durability.

Regular maintenance checks should be carried out at least quarterly keeping a close eye on any movement, especially in the sealed joins between two timbers.

If you notice the sealant has opened up and created a gap simply reapply the sealant immediately and re-paint.

By carrying out inspections on a regular basis, not only do you avoid the possibility of an expensive repair job or replacement part but the time taken to fix the problem is simple yet quick. The worst thing anyone can do would be to delay any repair work and forget about it.

Another important note to remember is that all paints are biodegradable. Although some paints have a guaranteed life span under perfect conditions unfortunately Mother Nature is not so forgiving.

A simple method to check how your paint is holding up is to run your finger along the surface. If you notice a chalky substance on your finger this is a good indication that a re-paint is near approaching. This chalky film is what we call oxidation. This is usually the first sign indicating that the paint’s chemical structure is starting to break down.

Another sign to look out for is if fine hairline cracks are starting to appear on the surface of the paint. A light sanding, wiping off any dust with a damp cloth and reapplying another premium acrylic top coat or two is all that is required.

Whether you are installing a decorative corner bracket, external handrail panels or right through to a complete verandah, there are guidelines to carefully consider which will determine the life span of the project.

In our more than 20 years of association with the building industry, l have had the opportunity to see firsthand projects that have stood the test of time and those that have failed within the first 2 years of installation. The end result is simple – the amount of care and knowledge associated with procedures undertaken in the preparation prior to installation is very important and could save you thousands of dollars in the long run.

With so many alternative products available on the market today, you must take the time to educate yourself before rushing into it. Knowledge is a wonderful thing and, 9 times out of 10, it’s free.

All products have key features and benefits; it is simply knowing which product is best suited for a particular job to give you the best end result.

One example of such a product is caulking; with so many types of caulks available at our disposal, they all have different application purposes. By simply reading the label carefully, information such as recommended use and key features and benefits should be clearly labelled on each product. If still unsure of which product best suits your requirements seek professional help by asking one of the sales staff for advice.

Things you should consider when choosing the right caulk for the project you are undertaking.

• Before deciding, you need to carefully consider the type of surface you will be applying it to. Some caulks will provide better adhesion to certain surfaces.
• Moisture resistant capabilities in certain circumstances will require a specified type of caulk that has waterproofing and mildew-resistant properties.
• Exterior caulks only to be used outdoors.
• If you need to paint over the caulk, make sure the caulk you are choosing is paintable. Not all caulks are designed to be painted over.
• Select caulks that are non-odour and safe if you have alternative options. Try and use caulks that clean up with water rather than chemicals.
• Always caulk after you have primed raw timber using a quality exterior grade aluminium wood primer.

A simple inexpensive product such as this could be all the difference that is required to prevent the process of wood rot occurring. It is critical that all exposed end grain timber that has been docked, as well as any type of rebates used, be painted with a quality aluminium wood primer to create a barrier especially on end grain to stop any water being drawn in.

Use only H3 class screws and nails for all external applications to prevent corrosion.

Avoid all types of rebates on all external timber projects. They are more harmful than good. Rebates only provide catchment areas for water and dust. A lethal combination, over time will ultimately lead to the process of rot.

We only use rebated profiles on internal projects.

All external profiles, such as bottom rails in balustrade and fretwork panels are designed so that the water will run off and dry off rather than seep into a rebate and be trapped with nowhere to go. A disaster in the making which is inevitable.

Important notes

Always make sure when you are attaching a fascia beam to a verandah post that both surfaces making contact are pre-primed before joining them together. In fact, this principle applies to all external timber projects. Failure in doing this is ultimately asking for problems sooner or later.

If water is exposed to any unprimed natural end grain timber that is low enough to the ground, water is absorbed into the timber.  This is very common on verandah posts. If left unattended over time the process of rot will occur and you will only notice it when it is too late. The process of rot works from the centre of the post outwards. You will notice the surface paint on the post bubbling which ultimately results in the replacement of the post.

It is very important when installing verandah posts that you have good clearance off the ground. Wind flow is very important after heavy rain which will dry the timber eventually. The worst possible scenario is to have a post directly on the ground or very low to the ground and sit in a puddle of water.

Stealthy and sometimes undetectable, rot is one of the most damaging predators to which a home can fall victim. Hardwoods can turn to a pulp with the simple recipe of adding moisture and warmth. Rot occurs in even the sturdiest of homes – wherever wood is found, there is potential for fungal growth and the resulting rot. Rot is common and often a minor issue that can be easily (and inexpensively) corrected if noticed early.

What causes the process of wood rot?

Most timber, unless painted with a quality exterior grade wood primer (such as aluminium wood primer) or of certain rot-resistant varieties, is vulnerable to moisture. Any timber that is exposed to air will naturally contain a small percentage of water. It’s when normal moisture levels in wood increase that deterioration and rot become a risk.

Fungus spores that are everywhere will blossom if fed enough water and will eventually become visible. Repairing rot-damaged timber cannot be put off as it will only spread as time goes on. Once the fungus growth begins, you can easily identify the two main types of wood rot. In one variety, the wood will have spots of decay that appear brown and crumbly and will break apart into pieces when disturbed. Another type is yellowish in colour, with the decayed wood becoming soft and stringy.

Surface moulds can be confused with rot; these moulds or mildews simply grow on the surface of timber but do not break down the fibres or cause any structural damage.

In all areas of a home’s exterior, pay particular attention to joints, rebated rails (especially bottom rails in fretwork and balustrade panels) which are slower to dry, and any timber that touches dirt or masonry. It would be strongly advised that you carry out regular checks on all timber work and make sure you keep on top of things. Attend to any minor maintenance work at the first sign, ensuring any repair work is effective and cost-efficient. In the case of joints, it’s a simple and quick fix by using a quality caulking product. In the case of rebated bottom rails, the problem is much worse and irreversible.

Objective

Our main objective when installing any external timber work is protecting the product against the irregular Australian harsh climatic conditions we constantly face on a daily basis.

We as a quality-assured manufacturer are obliged to our valued clientele to make sure that we take every necessary precaution possible to make sure we supply premium products. Unfortunately, we have no control over how our products are installed by others once they leave our premises. All we can do is educate our clientele and hope they take our valued advice in good faith.

The most important criterion for making sure your product(s) last for a very long time is the pre-preparation of the product when installing. I cannot stress the importance of this factor alone strongly enough. It’s unfortunate that many have this belief of simply nailing it on and slapping a coat of paint over it is all that it takes – she’ll be right mate! Think again!

Have you ever wondered why many heritage-style homes dating back to the early 1900s in heritage-listed suburbs still possess original external decor that has withstood the test of time? Timber hull boats that are moored in marinas all year round? The answer is simple. All external timber was painted using an oil-based lead primer (commonly known as red lead) followed by an oil-based lead topcoat (usually in the form of enamel). Lead was added to paints right up until the 1980’s and was not completely banned in Australia until the early 90’s. Legislation was introduced due to the lead content in the paint being deemed unsafe especially when disturbed and as a result lead poisoning.

Contact us directly via email. We are here to help with all your queries.

We can and do provide quotes over the phone. We do require specifications and typical information we may require:

• Measurements
• material
• quantity

This may not always be possible but we will do our best.

It is standard practice for your tradesperson to provide the relevant measurements. Be it a handyman, builder or carpenter.

Lead time is usually 10 to 20 working days but this can vary depending on work volumes and the specifics of your order and products required.

We do not install. This task is usually performed by your tradesperson or DIY.

Quality external wood primers with aluminium in the primer are available to protect from moisture. However, it is highly recommended that you follow painting instructions for care of external products.

The aluminium wood primer was introduced as a replacement for the successful results that lead-based pink primers achieved. That has been a tried and tested method of preserving external timber against rot since the early 1900s that will last and look good for a lifetime.

Products come with a 12-year manufacturer’s warranty instead of the industry standard 10 years. We are proud of the way we assemble our quality products only using quality fixings and glues and our finishes are second to none. That’s why we are confident to go above and beyond when it comes to our warranty.

If painted properly and using proper procedures, we are confident that the longevity of our products will last well over 25Yrs. In one particular job that l am aware of the original timberwork we supplied is currently still in original condition that was installed in 1987 (37 years ago). The key factor is solely in the pre prep installation of any timber product designed for outdoors. To fail to prepare is to prepare to fail.

Send us an email confirmation, including the details of your order. Once the deposit is received we can proceed.

For full details regarding returns and refunds please refer to our returns and refunds information on our website.

Before ordering a custom-made product, please carefully check:

• Your design should ensure it matches your vision.
• The timber selection for the correct appearance and durability.
• The measurements ensure the perfect fit and function.

This careful review process helps prevent discrepancies or issues with your custom-made product, as these items are tailored specifically for you and cannot be resold.